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Thread: 1991 E30 BMW 325i The Ultimate Daily Driving Machine project

  1. #26
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    Finished the shifter rebuild. Used the ECS Tuning kit with teflon upgraded bushing.




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  2. #27
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    Continuing to refresh transmission. Shift pin rebuild.




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  3. #28
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    Well, finished the transmission rebuild. Not many pictures because I wasn't expecting to work on it over the weekend. Got a call from my brother Sunday morning that he broken something inside his E36 M3 transmission, it will take time to source the parts and fix his transmission. So I had to finish rebuilding my transmission to let him install it into his E36 M3 since it's his daily driver. (His transmission is in the last picture)




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  4. #29
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    While watching the 24 hour Le Mans, I made sure I had something to work on. Took apart some of the S52, fixed the oil pump nut and installed my new oil pan just to see how it looks. Waiting for a package of gaskets, maintenance items, bolts, etc to show up so I can continue further.




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  5. #30
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    Had some time to disassemble and clean the engine. Then I started put everything together with new gaskets, seal, plugs. pulleys, etc. Engine looks very clean under the valve cover for 117k miles. Debating if I want to send out the wring to get it redone or if I should try do it myself.

    - New OE oil pan gasket
    - New OE valve cover gasket
    - New OEM oil filter housing gasket
    - New OEM A/C belt tensioner
    - New OE idler pulley
    - New BKR6EIX NGK spark plugs
    - New OE alternator belt tensioner roller
    - New OEM M3 oil cap
    - New OE A/C belt
    - New OE accessory belt
    - New OEM rear crankshaft seal
    - New OEM oil pickup tube gasket



    Last edited by pawa_k2001; 07-08-2016 at 23:01.

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  6. #31
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    Got around to working on the E30 again. Plugged up all the holes that lead to interior and cleaned up the engine bay. Deleted the SRS system but couldn't take off the sensors in the engine bay because I don't have the correct socket. Also start on the manual pedals swap, while at it deleted the aftermarket alarm system that was wired in. Once the pedals are in, I will clean up the wiring.



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  7. #32
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    Replaced the gears on the odometer. Now I can have a working odometer again.






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  8. #33
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    After the group drive today, I decided to get something done on the E30 project. Sand blasted to get all the rust off(brake fluid was dripping on the subframe for some time), welded in reinforcement plates for motor mounts and sway bar brackets, primered and painted the subframe.






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  9. #34
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    Started assembling the front subframe assembly. Used CAD(Cardboard assisted design) to relocated the steering column shaft hole to line the shaft up with the steering rack swivel joint. Also, installed the 325ix booster and master cylinder. I flipped over the master cylinder on the booster so the vacuum hole is now easier to access plus this lowers the booster by around an inch. Going with a BMW 2002 remote brake fluid reservoir since I decided to stay with the IX spacer. Some people take the spacer off but that leaves you with a brake booster being held on with 2 bolts.

    New parts installed:
    - Steering rack tie rod assemblies
    - Sway bar bushings
    - HD sway bar end links
    - Steering rack swivel







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  10. #35
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    After cleaning the engine bay, I noticed some rust on drivers frame rail. My best guess it that the leaking brake master cylinder was dripping brake fluid on the frame rail and subframe which bubbled the paint and let the metal rust overtime. It's nothing major, basically surface rust. I decided to eliminate it while it's easier. Took of the subframe again, used a wire bush, some cleaners to clean the surface, 3M sealant where necessary and primered the area. Thursday, I should get the paint to paint the area too.




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  11. #36
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    Getting ready to swap in the S52 into E30. Figuring out how every is fitted together. Trying to make sure I route all the wiring just the way it was. Used the wet paper method to get the pilot bearing out, easy and clean. Cleaned off the rust on frame rail and charcoal canister, primered both and painted.

    New parts installed:
    - Sachs clutch kit
    - Pilot bearing








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  12. #37
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    S52 is in. Everything bolted up without an issue, even the M50 manifold fit with minor fin trimming.

    New parts:
    - Fuel Filter
    - E28 M5 OEM motor mouts
    - Rouge Engineering transmission mounts





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  13. #38
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    Very frustrating Labor Day weekend. Wasted a lot of time on things I had to redo or trash completely.

    First, I found some rust behind the aluminum shield that covers the underbody and protects it from exhaust heat. On the inside, there is foam that held water/moisture which resulted in rust. I had to grind/flake away the rust and weld up a small hole. I then prepped it and covered it with Por-15, should be a permanent fit. Next I decided to make a bracket for my remote mounted reservoir. Dug around and found some scrap metal, cut it to shape and formed it so it wouldn't be flimsy. I than primered it and painted it only to remember that I can't use it because I want to run a strut bar.. After a failed attempted at the bracket for reservoir, I decided to do the coolant hoses to heater core and E30 temperature sensor into cylinder head. The coolant hoses were easy, temperature sensor I failed at. I had a borrowed tap and die set from O' Reilly's that just didn't do it's job, I now need a new temperature sensor..

    After not having much luck with the project for a day, I decided to do something else, Turner Motorsports M50 manifold adapter. Should have been easy but there were no directions. At the end everything came together perfectly. Seeing that something actually came together as it should, I decided to try my luck with the exhaust downpipes.. No luck.. I used straps, stuck a jack handle for more leverage and heated the pipes to try modify the bents to my liking but it just didn't come out as I would like it. One pipe is to close to sway bar and I don't want to shim the engine, the other pipe is against the control arm bushing and I don't want it that close to a rubber bushing. I made a decision to call a professional shop and let them make me custom downpipes.

    Up next was the power steering system. This actually turned out the way I wanted it. The only modifications are: a massaged high pressure line for better fitment and a E46 M3 line that I hacked up to steal the banjo bung. I found that E36 M3s have some reducer in their rack to reservoir return line so I decided to use it. My best guess is that they want the fluid backed up so the steering feels heavier. Oh and I installed the Bimmerworld clutch line, no clutch delay valve.

    New parts installed:
    - Bimmerworld clutch line
    - Turner Motorsports M50 manifold adapter










    Last edited by pawa_k2001; 09-06-2016 at 07:41.

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  14. #39
    wna go fast and turn left Kevin A. Parra's Avatar
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    I hate rust and bondo!

    Sent from my SM-G530T1 using Tapatalk
    BBBBBBBBBBWWWWWAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  15. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin A. Parra View Post
    I hate rust and bondo!

    Sent from my SM-G530T1 using Tapatalk
    The rust was minimal. It's behind now, can't wait to hear the engine run.

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  16. #41
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    Got around to my E30 to reinforce the rear sway bar link mounts and add toe/camber adjustment to rear wheels. While at it, installed some new bushings. I am just happy to be done with this job. The subframe bushings are a pain to change and slotting the rear control arm brackets took forever.

    Parts installed:
    - Rear sway bar link mount reinforcement
    - Rear toe/camber adjustment kit
    - Rear subframe bushings- OE
    - Rear control arm bushings- OE
    - Rear sway bar end links -OE







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  17. #42
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    Catching up with what I did during this long break.

    From 12-18-16

    Mocked up how to position and crimp the e30 to e36 a/c line and then had the local hydraulic hose shop crimp them together. Also, reused a sponge to make a filter at the bottom of the charcoal canister. The other a/c line will need more thought since it is not as easy to just splice together.






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  18. #43
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    From 01-02-17

    Asked a guy I know to help me build my E36 a/c compressor fitting. Cut out the bend and soldered it back together, then I used an angle grinder to take off the old hose. The hose is still not done since I have some parts coming in that hopefully will help me finish it.

    Sometime early December I bought a fuel rail from a 1997 528i, it needed to be a very specific fuel rail since it is the only model/year that had an integrated fuel pressure regulator. Well, once I received it, I found that it was bent. Took close to a month to deal with the junkyard and I finally sourced another fuel rail from another recycling place.



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  19. #44
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    From 01-22-17

    Finally received another fuel rail. Top fuel rail is from 1997 BMW M3, bottom is from a 1997 BMW 528i, They are identical except for the fuel pressure regulator. Got around to installing the intake manifold too, huge pain in the ass. Since the manifold is completely assembled, everything got in the way. Used new intake manifold gaskets to make sure I didn't have any vacuum leaks.




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  20. #45
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    From 01-28-17

    Ran into an issue.

    Since I am using an IX brake booster with it's spacer, the booster is to close to the throttle body so I can't fit the throttle cable as it is, nor could I fit the cruise control cable. I decided to cut out the elbow and shorten the adjustment screw on the throttle cable. I also used heat shrink tubing to keep the water out. On the cruise control cable, I also cut out the elbow and sourced the correct adjustment screw and cable-end to fit it on the E36 throttle body. Wasted some time making sure that all cables are correctly adjusted and that the throttle works smoothly.

    Once I was done with the cables, I decided to start on the dipstick tube. I cut off the bracket that holds the tube in place and moved it to a new location so I can position it differently in the engine bay. I just tacked the bracket on since it still needs some work. I also found a place for the fuel purge valve and borrowed a fuel line from a Subaru to connect the purge valve to charcoal canister.










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  21. #46
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    From 01-29-17

    Since my E34 dipstick tube didn't have a crankcase breather tube, I cut it off of the S52 dipstick tube I had laying around and welded it on. Also, welded on the relocated bracket. A quick coat of primer and black paint and the dipstick tube was done. Used a new o'ring to make sure the dipstick tube didn't leak from the oil pan.





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  22. #47
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    Some bits came in. I was debating between wanting to go with a nice cupkit vs a coilover kit. After reading many threads and reviews, I decided to call Ground Control to see what they can do for me. We discussed my need for something sporty but not harsh. The main reason I went with coilovers and Ground Control is because it will give me the ability to adjust front camber and the camber plates are the street version so hopefully no extra noise. Also, the front strut tubes get shortened and shocks themselves are shorter so the car will be able to sit lower without sacrificing the shock travel vs what basic lowering springs do.


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  23. #48
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    Thought about trying to put on 17x8" STI wheels on the E30. Off of my other project.


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  24. #49
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    One of those useless weekends. Hoped I could get a lot of things done but I am missing multiple $1 items to finish off various installations. On top of that I ran into more roadblocks with the a/c system. Everything is perfect except that I can't come up with a solution for the condenser to compression hose. I am just not finding a solution that I like so back to square one.. Ordered more random parts, some from John Deere in hopes that it will be the solution I am looking for.

    On to what I actually did.. Test fitted the Ireland Engineering to make sure I have the brake fluid reservoir mounted correctly, it is. Couldn't finalize any of the installation do to a $1 part. Found that a Cadillac brake booster check valve works perfectly for an S52 swap since I needed a check valve that comes out at 90 degrees, the BMW inline check valve wouldn't look correct since I would need to build some elbow to plug it in. Installed the new a/c condenser and fan, need to wire in the fan. Placed 7 different orders with various companies so hopefully some worthwhile updates soon.





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  25. #50
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    Update from 02-08-17.

    Finally figured out the a/c lines on the E30. Bought a John Deere a/c compressor manifold and made custom lines to fit it. Custom lines for the John Deere manifold are easy to do sine they use standard fitting that are available everywhere. This was probably my biggest obstacle to date since I have built, rebuilt and returned to the drawing board so many times to finally figure out how to build a/c lines to my standard(not hack job)







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